• Woodpeckers Butterfly Inlay Router Template Download
• Woodpeckers Butterfly Inlay Router Template For Kids

I received an email from Woodpeckers (their email newsletter) recently with a few tool definitions listed, and then (sadly) an apology email from them because they apparently offended some people. So the 4 they sent are listed here, along with a bunch more that I could find. If you have any others, please drop them into the comments!Notice that Marc (The Wood Whisperer) had the same reaction as I did, more to the apology than anything. I also notice it was initially discussed on Sawmill Creek, but their administrators have since deleted all responses.—————————————————————————-DRILL PRESSA tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.WIRE WHEELCleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, “Oh,.!”SKILL SAWA portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.PLIERUsed to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blistersHAMMEROriginally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit, or fingers if nothing else is on offerMECHANIC’S KNIFEUsed to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door.ELECTRIC HAND DRILLNormally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old ageHACKSAWOne of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence it’s course, the more dismal your future becomes.VISE-GRIPSUsed to round off bolt heads.

Woodpeckers Butterfly Inlay Router Template Download

If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.OXYACETYLENE TORCHUsed almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Well for me at least.

Hugh has just made a comment on the post on the, and it was something I never knew.I was talking in that previous post about having to fit the Woodpeckers Universal Adapter Plate to the Triton router to take the Porter Cable style template guides. Well I guess that just isn’t so!If you have the Triton Template Guide kit (either the one for the TRA001, or the one for the MOF001) then as part of the kit you get an alignment bush – it is designed to centre the template guide plate on the router by fitting tightly on the router collet. Now the diameter of the hole is very close to that of the thread of the Porter Cable guides, so you can use them directly, without having to completely replace the template guide setup. Triton and Woodpeckers Template Mounting PlatesOn the right is the 1400W Triton router, with the base plate replaced with the Woodpeckers Universal, and a template guide in the centre (the brass bit).On the left is what Hugh pointed out – you can mount the brass template guide into the alignment guide, and fit that to the Triton router’s optional template guide base plate. It doesn’t matter which kit you use btw – the one for the 1400W router has everything in it for the 2400W router (but not vise versa).So this has the black plastic base (the one that came with the router, and under that the template guide base plate. In the centre of that is the alignment guide, and in the very centre, a brass template guide.

Disappointingly it doesn’t sit flush with the surroundings, but that doesn’t matter because it all sits below the router base.There is an extra benefit – fitting the templates to the Woodpeckers plate is a little fiddly on the Triton router (I had to remove the dust guards to even be able to reach in there, and then I was getting close to a sharp router bit) Whereas with Hugh’s suggestion, I can mount the template guide completely away from the router, then fit it to the router with the ease of all the Triton template guides. Note some router bits are larger than the template guide opening, so what you do there is slip the bit through the guide, then with the guide loose, tighten the bit into the router. Then wind the router height down until the template guide can be fixed into place.About the only disappointment I had (other than the flush thing) was that the Leigh Template guide was too loose to be useful. Yes, you can get it centred and tightened, but the specific benefit of the Leigh bush is that it is eccentric, so you normally benefit from loosening it and slightly rotating. If the fit is loose, you will have other problems! Different GuidesSo here on the right is one of the Triton Template Guide kits, and in the lower left corner of that kit is the alignment guide that will fit the template guides shown in the green case.In the green case is a new set of Porter Cable style template guides from Professional Woodworkers Supplies. On the lid is the Inlay guide that was just reviewed, and the Leigh eccentric template guide.So there you have it – the video I am releasing in the next day or so on the inlay router guide is already out of date!

Woodpeckers Butterfly Inlay Router Template For Kids

And I only thought that happened to IT/computer related posts!!Thanks Hugh – some good info 🙂Filed under:Tagged:,. I’ve always wanted to do inlays, be that detail for boxes, or adding that something extra to other projects, but it always did seem to large a mountain to climb to work out how to do it, and more precisely, to get the templates just right to make it work.There is a secret (not a very well kept one mind!), and it actually comes down to the template guide moreso than anything else.In a collaboration with Woodpeckers and Whiteside (and Professional Woodworkers Supplies who are bringing them into Australia), there is a kit available which makes doing an inlay a breeze.

And I mean really, really easy. This is my very first attempt to ever do an inlay in a contrasting coloured timber. Poker Template InlayNow before I get into the “How”, lets have a look at the “What”, as in “What are we actually looking at here?”On the right side, we have an inlay of a contrasting timber (which in this case happened to be approx 3mm thick), which is completely flush with the pine.

Pretty clever eh, even if I did do it myself!On the left, you can see a cut out, and that is simply because I used this test piece as the backing for cutting out the contrasting heart. There is a video btw, and it will be on Stu’s Shed in a couple of days.So that is the “What”, now the “How”There are a few bits n pieces to this puzzle.

Firstly, and most obviously, we need a template. This can be shop made, or commercially purchased. The one I am using for this is the from Woodpeckers, which is 1/4″ thick phenolic, which means it is strong, and dimensionally stable through a significant temperature range (well beyond shed temp ranges!).

Poker Inlay TemplateAs you can see there are 2 of each pattern, and to give a rough idea of sizes, the smaller ones are approx 3″ high, and the larger 4″.You don’t use both of the sizes for the male and female parts of the pattern – the template guide takes care of the sizing requirements. You just have to choose if you want the smaller or larger design.

There are other templates available from Woodpeckers – a butterfly template which is for butterfly key joinery(which is both a mechanically strong, and decorative panel joinery method), and a circle template for. Particularly beneficial for both contrast inlays, as well as simply producing accurate, larger diameter holes.Imagine, for example, making a computer desk, and using the circle template to not only cut the hole for the cables, but instead of using one of those commercial plastic caps,you could, with a little thought, produce your own in timber – so much nicer!Hmm – getting a bit sidetracked. Historia de la filosofia pdf. We still want to know the answer to the big question “HOW?”Tempted to make you wait for the video. Oh, all right – here’s the short version.

Whiteside Inlay KitThe kit comes with a 1/8″ diameter solid carbide spiral router bit (on the right) with a 1/4″ shank. Next to it is an alignment pin so you can accurately centre the template guide.Finally, you have the template guide itself. It is a pretty standard size (unless you are using a Triton router for example, which uses the 50mm or so templates) so fits a number of routers.

If not, as was the case for me, it didn’t fit my router, until I added the Woodpeckers router base that is! Update – not exactly true – as revealed by Hugh, and further clarification in. Woodpeckers Universal Adapter PlateThere might seem to be a LOT of holes in this phenolic plate, and in fact the one I have has even more! It is so the plate can fit almost any router, and definitely includes the Triton router. I’ve added this to my 1400W router, and will probably leave it on permanently, so I can continue to use the different template guides.

The centre hole is perfect for the brass guides.Back to the template guide. It is designed specifically to work with the 1/8″ router bit.

There is a brass disk in the earlier image. When cutting out the cavity, this disk is fitted to the template guide.

An O Ring inside the ring ensures it stays in place.Next, this disk is removed, and the same template is used to cut out the contrasting timber. That’s about it – a really simple evolution in the end, and a classy finish.The Poker Inlay Template will be put to good use in an upcoming project, when I make a poker table. (If you couldn’t guess!!)So as mentioned, there will be a video out in the next couple of days so keep an eye for that.Filed under:Tagged:,. I was (attempting) reading the Leigh Dovetail Jig manual the other day, when I had a moment of clarity. The Leigh template guide does not fit the Triton routers, and that is unfortunate because Leigh have built into their template guide an eccentricity which allows for a very fine tuning of the fit, and accuracy of the dovetail jig.My clarifying moment was that the new sub-base I was about to review, along with a number of different sized brass template guides from, will take the Leigh adjustable template guide. Side View of SledA jig such as this sled is very important when routing the end of a long, thin section, such as the endgrain of a rail. Without it, routing the thin end of a piece can be a very dangerous activity – kickback (and significant damage to the workpiece) being highly likely.

In the past, I’ve occasionally resorted to using a sacrificial board as a surrogate backing board and guide and support, but it is a poor substitute for a jig designed for the job.There is no reason when using this jig, why you can’t still have a backing board to minimise tearout either. If I was to do that though, I would consider adding extra holddowns (such as a Woodpeckers toggle clamp, or the Incra Pivot Holddown Clamp to secure the backing board.

These clamps are easily added to the track in the guide rail (and I’d suggest would make a good permanent upgrade). The only thing you would need to do is ensure the backing board edges were parallel. As the backing board became chewed up, you’d simply remove it, and cut off the damaged end on the tablesaw, and keep using it until it became too short! Router tables are not just all about fences, straight lines, infeed and outfeed areas. They also have significant potential when used with bearinged router bits (where the bearing on the bit effectively becomes the fence, but a fence that doesn’t have the restriction of following straight lines).To safely use a bearinged router bit without a fence to guide your workpiece into the router bit, it really pays to have a starting pin, something to rest the workpiece against before rotating it into the router bit and against the bearing. This really reduces the possibility of a kickback. It is not critical, but sure makes the process a lot safer.The other thing that helps safety a lot, is a chip guard (like safety glasses fitted directly to the tool), and dust extraction.

Many router tables have dust extraction for the fence, but when that is removed for some freehand routing, so is the dust extraction.Triton for example really had freehand routing worked out, with the central portion of the fence removable so it could be fitted directly to the table, continuing the dust extraction, chip guard, and providing a pivot point both for starting and finishing.So what is there for other router tables? The answer is simple, and elegant. (If you can’t guess, I really like this solution). It is the Woodpeckers Freehand Router Guard, available in Australia from.

There are a number of ways of fitting it to your table, depending on your router table. So all this talk, what does it look like? Freehand Router GuardNow there is one thing about the name that I change. Instead of calling it a guard, I call it a guide.

Sure, the dust extraction is important, and the clear plastic guard is nice, the starting and finishing guides are the best features.Now onto my specific application. As I mentioned there are a number of different ways of fitting the Freehand Guard to the router table. I have added one more to the list. The MagJig.If MagSwitch only ever produced one version of their product, it would have to be the MagJig – I love em, and I can’t seem to get enough – every time I get another couple, I find even more would be useful. Sure, they can be moved from jig to jig, and I do that too, but I also like the most commonly used jigs to have their own dedicated MagJigs.So onto adapting the Freehand Router Guard so it can be affixed to ferrous topped router tables (such as cast iron router wings, Triton router tables etc).

A New SubbaseIf you compare this shape to the original (red) one in the previous photo, you can get an idea of where I am heading. I’m not replacing the red component either (although I could) – the full guard is going to be added to the top of this new base.It is my Mickey Mouse solution, and I’m not sure if that is the look, or the quality of my solution – time will tell I guess. I wanted the MagJigs to be located out quite wide, and also away from the actual contact points of the Guard. As they say – location, location, location.I have roughly cut out the shape on the bandsaw, and next, will use a template copying bit to duplicate the original component onto the hardwood (with the added mouse-ears of course!). Template CopyingAfter assemblying the Freehand Guard, I used one of the mounting solutions provided (2 long bolts), to attach my mouse ears. These are countersunk from underneath. The benefit of this, is the Freehand Guard itself is fully self-contained, and I can easily remove it if I ever decide to.

It is held on by the two knobs seen, so removing it is simplicity. One of the benefits of the MagJig solution is I can position the guard exactly where I want, and am not constrained by the location of holes in the router table.Here you can see the pattern (or template) copying bit about to get the new base to match the base of the Guard. I started with the bit seen here, but as mentioned recently abandoned it because of its scary ability to grab pretty much any bit of timber that comes anywhere near it, rather than cut it.

When I changed to my old Triton bearinged straight cutter, I had no problem what-so-ever.

Template Guide for InlayThis solid brass guide bushing is used with a 1/8' straight bit to let you to do tight, precise inlay work with a router and templates of your own design. The guide includes a solid brass guide bushing, retaining nut and bushing collar.The guide bushing is made to fit Porter-Cable or Black &anp; Decker router bases directly, and may be installed in most other routers with the help of an adapter ring designed to handle Porter-Cable bushings.Use the same template when routing both the mortise and the inlay. Route the mortise with the collar on. Route the outline of the inlay with the collar off. The offset of the collar is the same as the width of the bit so your inlay should fit in the mortise. Product WarningsWARNING FOR RESIDENTS OF CALIFORNIA!This product may expose you to chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.For more information, see. Related Products.